I’ve always loved surfing so living in here in Bali for a few months, my goal has been to get a session in every week. I would consider myself at intermediate level, so I’ve been going without an instructor which is more challenging particularly when it comes to getting past the break, but my skills are swiftly improving and I’ve had some great sessions.

I decided to kick the week off with an AM surf on Echo Beach last Monday and needless to say, it was the best way to start the week on a high. With the sun shining and the waves not too hectic, it was the perfect conditions for a chill morning surf.

A swimsuit on and hair pulled back into a ballet bun and I was ready to get out there. Getting past the break is always the hardest bit particularly with the big foam boards which are super heavy and almost twice the length of me!

I actually got out pretty quickly this time and caught some of my best waves yet. It can be exhausting just paddling to get out and battling with the tide, but it’s so worth it for those epic moments riding the waves.

My final wave was awesome and I stayed on it until I was almost on the beach, so I had to jump off before it got too shallow. It’s then equally challenging to get back onto the beach without being dragged under by the tide, so I had to rip off my leash and run up the beach to get out safely before letting my board wash up.

That post surf salty hair free feeling is the best.

Checkout the full edit of my surf session on my latest vlog here – https://youtu.be/M0LS_QLRNW4?si=UgXKwVvSnVcWdudK